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Understanding Soil

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Plants need certain nutrients in quantity, nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P) and potassium (K) commercially these are often supplied by chemical fertilisers such as urea.  In addition to these primary nutrients there are the so called secondary nutrients - calcium (Ca) Sulphur (S) and Magnesium (Mg) these are often included in bulk fertilisers.

Then there are the so called trace elements Iron (Fe), Zinc (Zn), Copper (Cu), Boron (B), Manganese (Mn), Molybdenum (Mo), Sodium(Na), Chromium (Cr) and Chlorine (Cl).  These are required in such minute quantities that they are generally available in the soil in the quantities required for plants.



But this is where the catch is; we are animals not plants and require these trace elements in much higher quantities, typically ten times the levels in plants. There are also other trace elements which the plants do not appear to need at all, like selenium which as far as we know play an important, if minute, part in the reproduction of our DNA. Chromium (Cr) is another element which has been widely promoted for diabetes and general health.



There has been much research into the relationship between diet and modern or affluent disease like heart attacks and diabetes.  The China Study by T. Colin Campbell is an excellent book analysing an in depth study of both rural and city Chinese people which show the benefits of eating a balanced vegetable diet.  A key argument is to look at the overall effect of vegetables on health and not the narrow relationship between one particular elements and a specific disease.


There is certainly a body of thought these trace elements which would normally be available at very low levels needed by the body are removed by excessive processing of food.

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We could obtain adequate quantities of these trace elements and vitamins by taking a wide range of pills or food supplements.  This, apart from being expensive, is also dangerous as some trace elements and vitamins are damaging or even poisonous in too large a quantity. By far the most effective, convenient and safe way is to grow and eat vegetables and herbs grown in nutrient rich soil. This ensures you are eating enough of these trace elements and vitamins without over consuming. Having a balanced diet is important.

Why Good Soil Is Important



It is no good trying to grow healthy vegetables and herbs in poor soil i.e. soil which does not contain the required nutrients or even it in the soil are not available the plants. Many minerals may already be in the soil or added as soil supplements but are useless to the plants as they are not soluble and so cannot be absorbed by the plants (and so us).  Soil biology makes these minerals available to the plants.

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Soil is produced by the soil biology, those millions of creatures which exist in the soil and form a complete web of life. They have two key roles. First to create the structure for the soil so roots can penetrate the soil and secondly to make nutrients and minerals which would otherwise be locked up in the soil available to the plants.

 

Wicking Bed Principles



Modern agriculture is very efficient, growing large volume of food very quickly and cheaply. This food contains a large amount of sugars and energy (probably too much) but may lack the minerals and vitamins which are essential for health. This has led to the widespread occurrence of what is called modern diseases -such as diabetes.


You can supplement your diet by growing your own vegetables and herbs in nutritious soil which is full of minerals. Many herbs have been used for thousands of years to aid health. Growing you own food, rich in minerals and vitamins, won’t necessarily cure decease but will increase your health so your body is better able to combat disease.

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Here is a way you can easily grow your own healthy foods in healthy soils!

How To Make Good Soil

~ Basic Principles ~

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Soil biology creates good soil, you need to farm the biology just like a farmer looks after his animals, first they have to be introduced then they have to be cared for by feeding and watering. Just like us humans, the creatures of the soil need plants to provide them with energy. They cannot create energy from sunlight by photosynthesis like plants so they need a continuous supply of food from plants. Beneficial soil biology also needs moist conditions, not to wet and not to dry.

Introducing Soil Biology

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You need to introduce the appropriate soil organisms; the key ones are worms, mycorrhizal fungi and may be bacteria.

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There are many different varieties of worms; most worms sold commercially are composting worms sold for worm farms. These feed on decaying vegetation and will not move far from the decaying material.  You also need a worm variety which will travel through the soil.
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We recommend using a combination of composting worms and amynthas worms - these are large powerful worms which generally live deep in the soil, they come to the surface to collect food and their movements aerates and conditions the soil.  They leave a trail of glue which helps bind the soil into aggregates improving soil structure.

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We recommend buying worm eggs rather than buying live worms which are not so easy to transport.  It takes about 3 months for the eggs to hatch out and the worms to grow to full size.

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Mycorrhizal fungi is a fungi which attaches to the roots of plants and sends outs its hyphae to absorb food and water.  The hyphae are very fine and so can generate very high pressures and they exude enzymes from their tips.  This enables them to dissolve rocks and minerals which are then transferred to the plants. Even though they may be plenty of mineral in the soil they are not available to the plant until they are made soluble.  This is the key role of the soil microbiology.

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We can supply mycorrhizal fungi commercially, there are many different varieties each more suited to different conditions and climate, so we supply a mix and work on the Darwinian principles, the variety that likes your conditions will prosper. You may also be able to obtain local varieties of fungi by taking a sample of local soil from under vegetation which has been undisturbed for a long period.

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Bacteria usually are already in the soil so you need not do anything; if the soil is totally inert then adding compost will generally provide sufficient bacteria although composting agents are available commercially if really needed.

Feeding Your Soil Biology

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Just as we need to eat on a regular basis so does soil biology. There is a complete food cycle, often called the food web but it all starts with plants.  All plant material will eventually enter the food cycle but it important to keep up a supply of green leafy material.  If this is not available then you need to grow plants specifically to provide this green material.

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Growing plants is a vital part of soil generation and I call plants which are grown specifically for soil generation ‘soil trees’.  Of course the plants you grow for your food will also supply organic material but generally these do not have aggressive root systems of ‘soil trees’.  You may therefore need to grow two types plants of plants, those for you to eat and those to feed the soil biology.

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You can select plant varieties suitable for you area (or plants will select you, most people call these weeds but they are a valuable source of green material).  In my area my favourite plant is Senna Alata; it is tough and fast growing producing an abundance of green leaves.  It also has a vigorous root system which is efficient at extracting nutrients like phosphorous and is also a legume so provides nitrogen.

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Feeding the soil biology is an ongoing process so you need to be adding organic material on a regular basis and also replacing the nutrients and minerals which you take away in your produce.​

Keeping Your Plants Moist

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Soil biology, particularly the worms and the fungi need to be kept moist, worms will simply move away or die if the soil is not moist and the fungi itself may die but the spores will remain alive but dormant until there is adequate moisture.


The wicking bed was developed to ensure the soil is maintained moist, it consist of a water reservoir under the soil so water wicks up to the soil at root level ensuring they are kept moist but not too wet.  The plants do not grow in the water.

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I first started promoting wicking beds over ten years ago as a way of improving the soil, other people have promoted wicking beds as a way of saving water, typically these promotions have used a separate water compartment.

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Wicking beds have become very common, many people just think of them as an efficient way of watering saving water and requiring less effort.  This is true however their real benefit is in generating good soil.

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The specific wicking bed process I developed for soil generation is patented, although of course wicking is a natural phenomenon and cannot be patented.

​Practical Soil Generation​
There are four basic methods - wicking boxes, closed wicking beds, open wicking beds and wicking furrows.  They all work on exactly the same principle, their major difference is scale.​

​Wicking boxes

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Wicking boxes are small boxes, generally less than a metre in length and virtually any water proof box will do.  Polystyrene vegetable boxes work fine and are no or minimal cost while plastics boxes sold in stores like Bunning’s and Discount shops only cost a few dollars.
 

​Closed Wicking beds

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Wicking beds are much larger than wicking boxes usually made from the numerous types of raised beds which are commercially available or constructed from wood or other convenient material.  The raised bed is converted to a wicking bed by lining with polythene sheet and installing appropriate water pipes and drains. Technically these are closed wicking beds as the soil is isolated from the ground. Typically they are less than 10 metres long.

​Open wicking beds

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Are similar to closed wicking beds but do not have side walls, just relying on a bank of earth.  They can be made much larger than the closed wicking beds generally 20 or more metres. They are not quite as efficient water wise as the close beds as water can escape to the surrounding soils, the amount is very small and typically deep rooted plants like fruit trees are grown alongside the beds to make use of the water.

​Wicking furrows

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Wicking furrows are simply a furrow, similar to a conventional irrigation furrow; they may run down a small incline but are better placed along a contour. Soil trees, crops or a combination of both may be grown alongside the furrow.
They are an effective way of improving soil over a large area as the furrows can be made much longer.

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